Kathy Hamilton One of the first truly sunny days of the year, I decided to go on an adventure hiking Causeway Coast. When you can’t drive, adventures are limited to where you can realistically get on foot or by public transport. Luckily for me, the train which whisks me to Northern Ireland’s majestic North Coast stops just minutes from my house.
So I packed my backpack, put on my best walking shoes and grabbed a raincoat (this is Northern Ireland and even the sunniest days can turn rainy in a flash!) My goal? To take a 4.9-mile dander from Portrush to Portballintrae.
Since my decision to go hiking the Causeway Coast was last minute, to say the least, I actually ended up sprinting to the train, without a second to spare before it set off from the station. But I always feel a childish exhilaration when I manage to catch a train this way, jumping through the doors that are already threatening to close. And as I sat in my seat I began to feel excited about my trip.
Belfast to Portrush
The trains in Northern Ireland always feel like a bit of an enigma to me. Most people I know rarely use them since there’s only a few routes and these don’t cover the whole country. But this can work in their favour. You’re nearly always guaranteed a window seat. You can log into the WiFi. And unlike buses the journey feels smooth and comfortable. Plus, if you want to get to the Causeway Coast from Belfast without having to fork out for a private tour, the trains are definitely your best bet. Even if you do have to spend a little more time working out the public transport times.
Belfast to Portrush takes about an hour and a half breezing through the countryside. It’s a scenic route but it wasn’t until the train rumbled into Portrush station that the real fun began. I realised that I had no idea exactly where to start. Beyond hiking the Causeway Coast that is! I had a vague sense that I should head towards the beach but as Portrush is surrounded on three sides by the sea I wasn’t sure which one! So, before I even managed to get out of the town I was already lost- a fantastic start! Determined to do things the old fashioned way; I avoided the temptation to check Google for directions and ventured into a sweet shop to ask for directions to Dunluce Castle.
Portrush to Whiterocks Beach
“You’ll never make it!” the woman cried. Her genuine dismay did slightly dent my enthusiasm but I decided since I’d already come this far I might as well try to get to Dunluce Castle over the course of the afternoon. I could always catch the bus back to town, the Causeway Clipper went that way, she told me. At this point I gave up on my resolution to do things the old fashioned away and downloaded a map on my phone instead. I knew I could manage the walk and my courage to ask for directions deserted me!
The first portion of hiking the Causeway Coast ended up being along the beach. It was perfect. I grew up on the coast and every now and then I crave the feeling of sea air in my lungs. Reinvigorated, I walked as close to the sea as I could without having to take my shoes off. The sun was behind me, the breeze all around me and in front of me beautiful cliffs rose in the distance. If I squinted I was sure I could see Dunluce Castle too. Not for the first time, I thought how lucky I am to live in such a beautiful place.
Whiterocks Beach to Dunluce Castle
At the end of the long stretch of sand I came to Whiterocks Beach, a little cove with a hotel at the top of a hill. When I got here some people were paragliding. So I sat for a while watching them float about in the air. Whiterocks Beach has been awarded a prestigious Blue Flag award and it’s not hard to see why.
The whole area is a labyrinth of caves and arches. Headlands of limestone rise out of the ocean. I learned later that they have names like the Wishing Arch, Elephant Rock and the Lion’s Paw. But at the time they just looked majestic. Under the road, there are caves too. However, these are only accessible from the sea and are home to seabirds and a hunting ground for hawks. I’m sure I spotted one hovering high above me, which was a highlight.
This stretch of the walk was by far my favourite. If you want to walk along unspoilt coastline on the North Coast but don’t quite fancy the full 5 mile trip then starting here would be a good choice. There’s a paved pathway to walk on and stunning scenery to look at. As I walked my imagination raced and I felt so inspired by the history and beauty of the place. A few posts ago I talked about the link between happiness and being outside. This walk is living proof of that theory! Dunluce Castle began to loom in the near distance. And, without realising it, I picked up the pace to get there.
Portballintrae and Home Again
Funnily enough, despite Dunluce Castle being my goal destination- I didn’t end up going in. For me, the goal was always to walk to the ruins that cling precariously to the edge of a cliff. So having achieved that, I was satisfied with looking at it from the road.
By this time it was late in the afternoon and so I didn’t think the £5.50 entry fee would be worth it. Instead, buoyed by a enthusiasm, I decided to carry on walking towards the sleepy coastal village of Portballintrae. About twenty minutes laterI arrived in Portballintrae and I started to feel tired for the first time- it’s funny how this happens isn’t it? I was also a little shocked to find out I was at risk of missing the last bus back to Portrush! So instead of looking around, I raced to the bus stop.
Since no trip to the coast is complete without Fish and Chips, my first priority when I got back to Portrush was to find some and then wait for my train. By the time I got home I was shattered, but nothing beats the deep sleep you get after a day spent outside. I went to bed with visions of limestone cliffs and crashing waves playing in my mind. All in all my day hiking the Causeway Coast was a success!
